osa mountain village Assamese people might look Indian, but Assamese culture is proudly distinct: their Vishnu-worshippin

oHeritage Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL $$ (%9774416649; www.theheritage.in; Offi cers Hill; r/ ste 1800/3500; W) Back in colonial days this was the home of the deputy commissioner and, with roaring open fires taking the chill off a cold winter night and hunting trophies and tribal arts adorning the walls, it retains something of the flavour of those times. osa mountain village

Assamese people might look Indian, but Assamese culture is proudly distinct: their Vishnu-worshipping faith is virtually a regional religion (see the boxed text, p 562 ) and the gamosa (a red-and-white scarf worn by most men) is a subtle mark of regional costume.

This hard-to-beat option has helpful English- speaking osa mountain village staff, eager room service and superb food. Rooms are neat, although some may not have external osa mountain village windows. It s by far the most popular of the city centre hotels and is worth booking in advance.