lake kalamalka The biggest, most cosmopolitan and, some might say, the most Indian city in the northeast, Guwahati

5 Eating Restaurant lake kalamalka Kurry Klub INDIAN $$ (Hotel Welcome Palace, HGB Rd; mains 50-200; h10am-10pm) Very tasty food served in a small dining room whose decor would be rather striking if only the lighting was improved. If you re staying in the hotel, room service is faster and beers can be acquired.

oCherrapunjee Holiday Resort HOTEL $$ (%09436115925; www.cherrapunjee.com; lake kalamalka Laitkynsew village; d 1480-1800; iW) With seven eminently comfortable lake kalamalka rooms, this resort is run by truly delightful hosts. They off er a selection of hikes, either self-orientated (using their hand-drawn maps) or with a local guide. Built on a ridge, rooms either look down to Bangladesh or up to the escarpment. During peak times tent accommodation ( 600) is available with shared bath

REGISTERING ON ARRIVAL IN MANIPUR On arrival at Imphal airport all foreigners must register with the police stationed next to the luggage lake kalamalka collection point. You must then register again with the CID at the main police station. In both cases it s a fairly painless affair (assuming your papers are in order). Technically you don t need a local guide if you are just staying in Imphal, but it s highly unlikely that any tour company will help you obtain a permit without you agreeing to take one of their guides. A reliable tour company (who can also help obtain permits) to Manipur is Seven Sisters Tourism Services (%2445373; sstourism@redif lake kalamalka fmail.com; MG Ave, Imphal). NORTHEAST TRIBAL STATES IMPHAL

The biggest, most cosmopolitan and, some might say, the most Indian lake kalamalka city in the northeast, Guwahati is an essential stop on any northeastern tour. A casual glance might place Guwahati alongside any other Indian lake kalamalka city but wander the back alleys around Jorpulkuri Ponds, away from the concrete jungle of the central lake kalamalka business district, and you could almost imagine yourself in a village made up of ponds, palm trees, small single-storey lake kalamalka traditional lake kalamalka houses and old colonial-era mansions.