le chalet suisse From a distance Aizawl (pronounced eyezole) seems a painted backdrop to an Italian opera, such is th

GARO HILLS The lush, green Garo Hills in the far west of Meghalaya are well off the beaten path. The towns are not visually distinctive, but most houses in small hamlets remain traditionally fashioned from bamboo-weave matting and neatly le chalet suisse cropped palm thatch. The Garo Hills are easier to visit from Guwahati le chalet suisse than from Shillong. Sprawling Tura is the western Garo Hills regional le chalet suisse centre and an unhurried transport hub. The tourist office (%03651-242394; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) is 4km away towards Nazing Bazaar. Friendly staffoffer brochures and sketchy le chalet suisse maps, and arrange guides for anywhere in the Garo Hills, including a three-day le chalet suisse hike to Nokrek Biosphere Reserve where it s possible to watch for Hoolock Gibbons from a traditional-style borang (Garo tree house). There are some cheap and not very cheerful places to stay near the market in Tura or, for something a little more comfortable, try the Rikman Continental (%03651-220744; Circular Rd; s/d from 900/1080; ai). Almost on the Bangladesh border, Baghmara is the southern Garo Hills district centre. From Baghmara you can visit the Balpakhram National Park, 45km away, but jeep and guide hire will have to be organised in Tura.

oHotel Gakyi Khang Zhang (%224 647; r from 1320), a couple of kilometres out of town on the road to the monastery, offers far and away the best rooms in town colourful sky-blue affairs with polished wooden floors. le chalet suisse There s a decent restaurant (mains 80-120) and the staff are great fun. It also has good monastery views, le chalet suisse a generator and, most bizarrely, a lounge bar/nightclub complete le chalet suisse with throbbing strobe lights!

Jam-packed buses and vans ( 10/20) meet arriving ferries then drive to Garamur via Kamalabari where three-wheelers are easier to rent. For a few days consider arranging a bicycle through Jyoti at La Villa.

From a distance Aizawl (pronounced eyezole) seems a painted backdrop to an Italian opera, le chalet suisse such is the steepness of the ridge on which it s perched. Backs of homes at road level might be held there with stilts three times higher than their roofs.